Why ready to wear clothes are an awkward fit

Ever buy a shirt or pair of pants from your local menswear store only to discover they fit the same? Or you needed to try on several before finding one that does fit you correctly?

One of the more curious phenomenons is when you go to your local menswear store and find out, that the 36” waist doesn’t fit as well as a 38”, and you know, all your pants are 36”? Did you gain weight, feeling bloated or water weight gain, too many wings with the beer, what gives?

To understand this better, you need to appreciate how the apparel food chain works.

It starts with an apparel manufacturer who needs to create an item that will fit (and therefore can be sold to) as many people as possible.

A standard measurement is used to create a form that is used to cut all fabrics exactly the same. In this case, it’s usually a 40” chest x 34” waist x 40” hip or seat. Or some might use the base measurement of 38” chest x 32” waist x 38” hips or seat. This is now your base measuring form.

The difference between the jacket size and the pants is called the drop. That’s why when you’re buying a suit, you can’t find too much difference between other size, especially if you’re a hard to fit person ala big and tall or someone whose drop is greater than the allowance.

In the case of the “drop” if you don’t fit into the size range, you either go larger or look for what known as “suit separates”.

Then manufacturers/designers own unique aspects or features to distinguish their lines.

To add some seasoning to this mix, factor in that its being made overseas, to different specs and it also might occur that several factories around the world are involved in making the same garment!

It’s this potpourri of various entities that are used to make your shirt or pants that creates this inability to find exactly what you’re looking for, in your size and in the color or style that you wanted.

Or why I don’t wear a particular 3XL sport shirt, because although I love the color, it’s too tight in my neck and shoulders and is humongous through my torso!

How Many Suits Are Enough?

I’m often asked, “How many suits qualify as enough?”

My answer usually is, how many suit/sport coats do you have that fit you well now?

Believe it or not, most men have clothes that don’t fit properly. Come to think of it, when was the last time you got measured? However, that discussion is another blog entry for another day.

My firm answer is that you should be able to wear a different suit or sport coat over a 2 -3 week period. Figure between 10-15 suits and/or sport coats or combos thereof. And it should be enough for 2 seasons worth.

(Remember, building your suit wardrobe takes time, it doesn’t happy over night, it will take a few years to build it)

Why so many? The answer is that the wool is a living breathing organic entity. It lives and breathes with you. We’re talking 100% wool, no blend or synths. When you wear it, it eventually forms and shapes itself to your body.

Here are a few reasons for owning  a 3 week supply of suits:

One is usual daily wearing will cause wrinkles. And if not allowed to relax, the wrinkles can get “set”. Not a good idea if you’re trying to impress the office natives.

Another is sweat or to be polite, perspiration. Yes, I know you don’t sweat, but trust me you do and it’s in your clothes. Without letting your jacket and/or pants to air out, your office popularity might start to suffer, if it hasn’t already.

An additional point is wool stress. If you’re wearing clothes that don’t fit as well as the first time you bought them, they’ll eventually stress the seams. Which means a split somewhere or worse, those stress marks will show across in front of your pants.

Wear and tear is also a culprit in why rotating your suits is important. When was the last time you checked your pant cuffs for scuffs or heal wear or the edges of your sleeves?

One more point, excessive dry cleaning can eat away at your wool garments. The solvents from the dry cleaning will eventually wear down the wool. Your garments shouldn’t require dry cleaning more than once or twice a year.

The axiom here is, NEVER wear your garments twice in a row, change your suits daily, always hang the jacket and pants separately to allow them time to air out overnight before putting them back into your wardrobe.

Yes I know, it’s a pain, but think of this way, you paid good money for your clothes this isn’t planned obsolescence. With care, you garments will repay you with many happy years of compliments.

Which suit fabric weight for which season?

Suit fabrics are created not just for their luxuriousness or style but also in seasonal weight as well. This is an important distinction as not all suit fabric weights are meant for all seasons.

So, begs the question, which fabric weight is for which season?

The suit fabrics are based an ounce measurement which stems from ounces per linear yard.

6.5 – 8.5 oz.: this is a tropical weight or summer suit. It’s light, airy and breathes. You’ll especially appreciate it if you live in warmer climes.

9-10 oz.: this is what is typically known as a mid weight or 3 season suit. Good for about 10 months of the year.

11-13 oz.: this regular weight is most appropriate for fall/winter months or if you live in a more northernly area.

14+oz. this is Frozen Tundra/Scottish Highlands territory!

Most important, always allow your suits to air out for the night before putting it away in your wardrobe.

Do Clothes Make the Man?

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. Mark Twain

Mark Twain had it right, clothes do make the person. If this is true, why do so many insist on avoiding this precept? Is it because they think that turning the radio louder, they’ll become invisible? All too often, it takes an embarrassing situation to infuse a person with effort to change.

I’m pretty much a glass half full kind of guy. So rather than concentrate on how poor dressing keeps someone back, it’s better to suggest what dressing better will do for them.

So here are some of my not so scientific reasons why you should always look your best:

Look like you belong: you may not think its fair, but you are being judged by your peers on how you dress, those on high are reviewing those down below.  Keep tabs on how they dress.

That job interview: it is a beaten horse, but people still don’t get it, you’re being judged if you really want this job. Just think, do you lose the interview because you came to the interview dressed wearing a polo shirt and khaki pants?

Dating: Another beaten horse and people still act is if it doesn’t matter. Your first impression does matter.

Self esteem: if you look good you, you feel good and a positive vibe is what it’s all about.  And everyone can feel that vibe too.

Any other suggestions?

Keep dressing sharp!